Wata – what?!? Watamu Beach Weekend in Kenya

(July 2-4) I’m back writing the newest installment of Kenya Time (which tends to run quite a bit behind USA time). As I mentioned before, we did what many Kenyans do on the weekends, hit up the beach for a weekend on the sand. Living in Mombasa (pretty much the south east corner of Kenya) gives you the option to head up the north or down the south coast, both of which have fantastic beaches on the Indian Ocean. Here is your geography lesson for the week…it is just under a two hour drive up the coast in a taxi (add 30-45 minute for the matatu) to the small beach town of Watamu (Wha-Ta-Mu) Beach and the Gedi (Gidi) Ruins. Go another 20-30 minutes and you are in the sizeable town of Malindi (this is a little more than a third of the way up the coast). Okay, enough of that boring geography.

On Friday afternoon we finished up our work and piled into a matatu for a mere 250 schillings or about $3.25. After over two hours of CRAMMED in sardine time with our bags we decided a taxi would be taken back on Sunday. Apparently there is a time limit on the matatu charm, and it is definitely under two hours and probably more like 30 minutes. We arrived at Turtle Bay Resort around 5:30 and proceeded to pay $82 per day for an all inclusive stay (3 scrumptious meals, delightful snacks, drinks (including alcohol)), 2 rooms, and time with some other bizarre-o tourists.

Honestly, Friday evening and most of Saturday were pretty uneventful. We ate TONS of delicious foods including salads with crazy hot little peppers (love them) and desserts like this giant frog made of chocolate. I have to say it’s a little disturbing when you hit the dessert tray to find the back end of a chocolate frog the size of a microwave…where’s the head (then you look over and it’s on several kids’ plates)?!? We also walked around the beach and mostly sat reading and/or working in the sun (well not me since I am taking a sun break) all day. The wind and an occasional monsoon proved to be enemies at times, but we certainly managed.




After getting cleaned up for dinner (Liz got in trouble at lunch for being inappropriately dressed, apparently wearing a beach cover-up and holding a towel by the pool is offensive) we were enjoying meal number four at the resort when disaster struck. A man at the table next to us appeared to be choking, but he was actually having a seizure. Everyone came to help and thankfully he got through it unharmed. This intense event seemed to set the tone for the rest of the strange evening. Later we were near the bar waiting for yet another World Cup game to come on when we started overhearing arguably the craziest conversation I have ever heard, and as many of you know I have heard some doozies. I am going to give you a few of the highlights another time since it is not good to have it posted per my friend that lived here.

As that night continued, old US music (like “Workin’ 9 to 5” and the Macarana) was played loudly for the “disco party.” Europeans, mostly in their 40s, were line dancing and crazy dancing until the music stopped at midnight. It was quite the spectacle, and we bailed early.

The next morning Liz and I were up early to attend a local Catholic mass at St. John the Baptist Church in Watamu. We thought it was going to be in English, but it turned out to be in Swahili which was a pleasant surprise. The mass started 30 minutes late, but it was worth the wait as the entrance was a grand one. The center aisle filled with 30+ children, some in matching clothing, clapping and dancing to delightful African music. The priest and others followed the procession of children eventually. Much of mass was similar with the readings read and other rituals completed, but the music and clapping were much more fun and energetic! Unfortunately, Liz and I had to leave early, but we hoped to make it to another mass while in Kenya.

We then had another great breakfast and headed to Malindi to visit the local markets. We met three Kenyan guys there that showed us around the markets and tried to guess what country I was from. They guessed just about every European country, Argentina, Australia, and Canada before I finally just told them I was from the US. Many other Kenyans have guessed where I am from and I thought I was so obviously American, but I guess my looks and the proximity to Europe calls for a lot of Italy, France, and Holland guesses.

Much like other markets around the world, there were lots of small shopping stalls (about 10ft by 10ft) with individual sales people chatting you up incessantly and trying to negotiate constantly. Maki was a shopping machine collecting wooden treasures as if she were starting her own craft store in Japan. I only collected a couple of small pieces of jewelry as gifts for family or friends since I cannot haul wooden goods on my back the next five months. I am sure I will cave and buy an African mask or two to add to my collection. Liz mentioned she would be kind enough to bring them to Chicago on her way back. We took our taxi back to Mombasa and got a lot of sleep that Sunday night. Once again my stories became long-winded. I hope it was enjoyable. Until next time…Sarah.